Roots Of Hebron

Before going to Jordan, I (Matt) had no idea where Hebron was or why it was relevant to Chris' family.  I left with the answers to both questions.   When we arrived, all we knew was that Chris' Uncle Jamal had arranged for us to meet his sister, Najah, and her family, who lives in Amman, but that was the extent of it.  We had no idea that they (through her daughter, Safa) had arranged for a private driver to take us to the Dead Sea and Baptism Site of Jesus and that after they would have us for dinner at their house.

They were beyond generous and hospitable in every way possible.  The best part though was that they made us feel at home, in a way that only family could.  We ended up going over for dinner twice and both visits were spent getting to know Chris' extended family and where they came from.  That's when I learned that Jamal wasn't from Jordan at all, but instead from a town in Palestine, called Hebron.  Unfortunately, due to the political conflicts with Israel, his family ended up fleeing Hebron (with the roots of a Hebron grape vine in tow) and taking refuge in Jordan.  There's no doubt though that Najah and her husband are passionate about where they come from.

 

 

Top Left Clockwise:
Hijazi Family, Najah's husband wearing black and white head piece (representing Palestine), Grape vines from Hebron, Najah and her family.

Independent of how much you read or watch on the news, there's nothing like visiting the Middle East region to get a real understanding of the difficulties there.  I for one never realized that so many Palestinians left to Jordan because they considered their territory occupied by Jewish settlers.  It's sad hearing stories of the conflict in the region, but we still really appreciated visiting and listening to different perspectives on both sides of the issue.  More importantly though, it was nice just getting to share stories over a home-cooked meal, baklava, and some fresh picked grapes from that very same vine they grew up with.

LOGISTICAL STUFF:
CROSSING THE BORDER FROM ISRAEL TO JORDAN:
There are three points of entry from Israel into Jordan -  Sheikh Hussein (north), King Hussein Bridge / Allenby Bridge (central) and Wadi Araba (south). The NAME border is by far the most popular as it's more of a direct line into Amman (57 km / 35.4 miles away), the capital of Jordan and great jumping off point to various sites around northern and eastern Jordan. However, you will need to visit a Jordanian embassy to obtain your VISA before crossing. We chose the Sheikh Hussein border, mainly because we're lazy and didn't want to have to obtain our visas beforehand - VISA on arrival for U.S. citizens.

SHEIKH HUSSEIN - NORTHERN BORDER CROSSING:
We took 2 buses and a taxi to get the border - Bus #1: Tel Aviv - Jerusalem (18 ILS), Bus #2 - Jerusalem to Bet She'an (42 ILS), Taxi: In Bet She'an, take an overpriced taxi (40 ILS) straight to the border - there is no local bus that we found that will take you there, after asking around for 30 minutes. Go to www.egged.co.il/eng for bus schedules - super easy website and the air conditioned buses DO run on time.

When you arrive to the border patrol office on the Israeli side, you may wonder if you're in the right place. Matt and I made up of 66% of the patrons, with the only other person of Palestinian decent, crossing for work purposes. After exiting Israel, you'll have to wait approximately 45 minutes for a bus to take you 100 yards to the Jordanian border patrol office. Leave your bags/luggage at the door when you enter.

OBTAINING A VISA ON ARRIVAL / STAMPS INSIDE YOUR PASSPORT:
It's very straightforward to obtain a visa on arrival at this border crossing. Now, stepping back when we were first entering Israel, we were very specific in requesting to have our Israel entry stamped on a separate piece of paper, i.e. not in our passport. After explaining that we were on a long trip and could potentially visit countries that will not allow us entry with the stamp, like Malaysia, Bangladesh, etc. The officer obliged  although not without a little Spanish Inquisition. 

Fast forward to the present, entering Jordan overland via Israel. The Jordanian officer asked me TWICE if I (Chris) wanted to have my visa and entry stamp included in the pages of my passport. Without thinking it through (blurred by my excitement), I replied, "Of course!" But, after the fog cleared, Matt and I quickly realized why he had asked. The officer explained that since the stamp specifically names the border we used to cross into Jordan, it was obvious that we have visited Israel, regardless of not having an Israeli stamp in our passport. In other words, all that work and worry about the Israeli stamp was moot, now that we had that particular entry stamp. 

Thankfully, it appears that border patrol officers are only looking for the Israeli stamp itself when thumbing through your passport. I only say this because we had someone specifically ask us if we've been to Israel, and we simply said, "We do not have an Israeli stamp." That seemed to suffice. (Phew!) 

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