The Power Of A Matriarch

We've been here in India and I've found it to be a great place for getting your creative juices flowing once again. The noise, colors and music can't help, but make you productive, as it seems everyone here is in a hurry to somewhere. But this post is neither here nor there, it's about a moment in Africa.

As part of our introduction/initiation process onto the Acacia Truck, Matt and I had to give the group reasons as to why we decided to travel to Africa (followed by a swig of 98% vodka, then an unsuccessful attempt in saying your full name without coughing - not an easy task). For Matt, it was the landscapes and World Heritage Sites. For me, it was to see the African elephants. All my life, I've always admired them for their grandior, intelligence and strong family ties - they have even been shown to assimilate a burial ceremony for their kin, i.e. the elephant funeral. So, the first time we spotted a herd of elephants in the Serengeti, I was beyond excited.

We watched in silence as a head matriarch quietly led her family only a few meters in front of our open-roofed safari truck. Just seeing that, I was in awe. I can't imagine what she may have thought of us. Perhaps we were some strange creature from outer space  with a large shiny body that sprouted 8 heads, each with one long extending eye (aka: the camera zoom). We must have looked very strange indeed, because shortly after she got the herd safely across the road, she double-timed it back towards us to get a closer peek. She moved with purpose and then suddenly stopped on a dime, causing her large Africa-shaped ears to swing forward in the momentum. She stood still as a board, and glared right into our pupils, trying to make heads or tales of the danger we presented.

Photo Courtesy of Stacey Berg

As I stared blankly back into her dark little eyes, I held my breathe. (1...2...3...) She had stood long enough. She had made her point, her presence known. She slowly turned her back to us and followed after the herd. Even after she was far in the distance, I still felt her presence. A true matriarch, she was mesmerizing.

Photo Courtesy of Stacey Berg

P.S.
My camera died during this whole occurrence, but thankfully Stacey, our fellow passenger, took pity on me and gave me a few of her photos. Thanks, Stacey! :)

CLICK HERE FOR MORE PICS

Gnomes On Safari

Matt and I have both tried writing a post to summarize our African Safari experience at The Maasai Mara National Park in Kenya, but all that we could come up with was how incredibly happy we were just riding around the open plains with our heads popped out of the sun roof like gophers, watching as 'National Geographic' played before us in real time. We hope this little montage of my first / Matt's second game drive can help shed saw light on what we saw. Roll 'em!

The Maasai Mara National Park in Kenya  
(ADVISORY: Please turn up volume & push pause to wait for video to load halfway before playing.)

CLICK HERE FOR PICS

A Plan Not To Plan

Upon arrival into Kenya, one thing was clear. We were, for the first time in five months of travel, ready to let someone else do the planning and take a break from the independent side of travel. It was a combination of fellow traveler recommendations and being unsure of independent travel in Africa, but doing an Overland trip with a tour company was looking like the best option.

The high council of the Gnomes was summoned in Nairobi, and the number-crunching game began. We researched numerous tour operators and the council reached a decision after four days of deliberation. The Gnomes would go on a 43-day overland tour from Nairobi, Kenya to Cape Town, South Africa, starting Oct 7 - Nov 18 with Acacia Africa. Let the African journey begin!

POST-ARRIVAL*: This post is a little outdated, but thought we'd include it anyway as an FYI when looking for an organized overland tour across one of the world's most intriguing places - Africa. Plus, it kind-of gives you a before and after take on the whole thing.

Meal Time in Botswana (Click pic to enlarge)

ITINERARY: NAIROBI, KENYA TO CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA 2012 | 43 DAYS

• OCT 7 - 13 (DAYS 1-7): Nairobi, Masai Mara, Serengeti Plains
• OCT 14 - 21 (DAYS 8-15): Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Malawi
• OCT 22 - 31 (DAYS 16-25): Lake Malawi, Victoria Falls, Livingstone
• NOV 1 - 7 (DAYS 26-32): Chobe National Park, Okavango Delta
• NOV 8 - 12 (DAYS 33-37): Etosha National Park, Swakopmund
• NOV 13 - 18 (DAYS 38-43): Fish River Canyon, Cape Town

LOGISTICAL STUFF:

FACTORS OF PICKING AN OVERLAND TOUR: 

Note:* The below info is from advice given from those that have already taken the plunge themselves, and what we learned through the booking process. We may alter these notes in the end - hopefully not.

1. PRICE - They all pretty much do the same itinerary, so pick one in between the highest and lowest price. Apparently, you get what you pay for and low may be REALLY low in regards to quality of guides and camping gear. Also, make sure you understand ALL of the hidden fees and additional costs, like admission to national parks, 3 day activities/treks/game drives in said parks, and more obvious add on activities that are truly optional. After adding these all up, the least expensive could very well become the most expensive in the bunch.
   *POST-ARRIVAL NOTE:  We went with 'Acacia Africa', which is in the mid price range. 
2. GUIDES - Some of the more inexpensive companies may provide guides that are more like "tour leaders," aka: logistical organizers, rather than actual guides that are also knowledgeable on the areas you are visiting. Additionally, check up on the general reputation of the guides at a particular company. If you want to get really specific, you can even call the company directly and find out who will be leading the tour on the dates you want. Then do some reconisance on his/her name via travel forums and the like. You have now entered an A.D.D. Wonderland.
   *POST-ARRIVAL NOTE: We had great guides - a married couple, Julianna and Riann, with 20+ years of tours (and catering...yumm) under their belts.
3. GROUP - Which leads me to the last point. You can also ask the company what the demographics are for the group, which is a nice way of asking, "What's the age range?" Now, we understand age is just a number and maturity (or rather, imaturity) can come at any age, but there are generalities to consider. Also, remember to ask how many people max would be on the bus.
   *POST-ARRIVAL NOTE: Our group ranged from 21 - 40 years old, with 12 - 22 people max, depending on which leg of the trip you're on. Something we didn't know beforehand - we booked from Nairobi to Cape Town, but some peeps on your tour may have only booked Nairobi to Zanzibar. Some Zanzibar to Livingstone. Others Livingstone to Cape Town or Livingstone to Johannesburg. So, you won't always be with the same 22 people during a 43 day trip. If you're joining in at a particular leg, you may find yourself to be "the newbie," welcomed by a 98% proof vodka shot as part of your initiation. Also, if you want to extend your trip to include the next leg, our company (Acacia) seemed to be flexible in accommodating your desire to keep on truckin'.

VISAS:

For U.S. citizens, you only need to obtain VISAs for entry into Kenya, Tanzania and Zambia, all of which you get upon arrival for $50 - $100 USD each (depending on country).

*POST-ARRIVAL NOTE: If you're a U.S. citizen, don't be surprised if your VISA fees are a little higher than every one else in your group - the country you're entering is only matching what U.S. officials charge for their citizens to enter the U.S. - Only fair.

MUST HAVES:

• Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate - Some countries will not let you into the country without it.
• Travel Insurance - Some companies will not let you on the bus without it.
• USD currency - Plenty to pay for the Local Payment, paid directly to the company when you arrive (must have USD cash in hand - will not except any other currency), VISAs on arrival, and any additional fees for activities, park admissions, snacks, drinks, etc. Zanzibar has ATMs and you can pay for things with Credit Card, if necessary. Also, some places will allow for local currency when paying for fun-in-the sun-type activities.
• Note: If you are booking your tour while in Africa, you probably don't have enough USD on hand. You should allocate a few days to take money out of ATMs in local currency and exchange them into USD. If you're from The States, seem's weird to convert from USD to local currency and then back to USD, but that's how it's done (so they say). OR, the company you're booking with may do you a favor and let you pay the Local Payment with Credit Card at a high exchange rate - 5% or more.
  *POST-ARRIVAL NOTE: You actually only need USD for the local payment and VISAs on arrival. All countries will take local currency for site activities and if they don't, they will be happy to oblige swiping your credit card - for a fee, of course. Also, you may be able to exchange local currency with your tour guides for USD if you absolutely need it. Bottom line - take some USD, but don't break the bank.
• Sleeping Bag / Pillow / Toilet Paper / Sunscreen / Detergent / Towel - They will NOT provide a sleeping bag for you. Check the overnight weather for the season to determine the weight needed.
  *POST-ARRIVAL NOTE: You really can take as many things as you want - within reason. Since your things will be stored on the bus the entire time, you don't have to worry about how much your bag weighs. This also means that you can buy as many curios (souvenirs) as you can carry back to the bus and then either post them home via good ole snail mail, or pack them in your carry-on for your flight home.

CLICK HERE FOR MORE PICS: Nairobi (place of planning for the overland tour)

A Good Lay...Over

When the cheapest flight from Amman, JORDAN to Nairobi, KENYA had a 19 hour layover in BAHRAIN, we immediately had visions of uncomfortable airport seats and back cramps. It wasn't until i glanced at the flight times, that I realized we might be able to spend a night there. It turns out that 'Gulf Air' handles all the details, including VISA, transport, meals and accommodation at an upscale hotel for a reasonable price of $40 per person. I did the math and the plane ticket was saving us almost $200 per person, so it was still a really good deal, plus we could hang out in BAHRAIN for the night. 

In the end, everything worked out exactly according to plan. I guess there is such a thing as a good layover. Who would have thought?

Here are some pics of our brief outing the night we spent there:

The Bahrain World Trade Center

Mall on Ground Floor of World Trade Center

CLICK HERE FOR MORE PICS

Petra Through Rose-Colored Glasses

Matt asked me how I would describe Petra, while discussing the blog post yesterday on our bus in Southern India - heading from Kerala to Tamil Nadu. After only a couple seconds, three words rose to my minds eye, like scrolling letters of fog from 'Alice's Wonderland Caterpillar': vast, colorful and ornate. There is so much more to Petra than just these three words, but for me, they are what made it such a unique experience - and one of our favorite places we've visited thus far on our trip.

After reading a few blurbs on Petra from our friend's, Ivan The Great, 'Rough Guide,' I discovered how massive the park actually was (264,000 square meters) and had to grab a guide book myself before venturing out to the hidden city. Like the sandstone walls that make up every inch of this place, the layers upon layers of history and changing of hands make Petra so curious, but it was the Nabataeans that made it a true wonder of the World - and for us.

We went early in the morning to "beat the crowds" and found ourselves amongst the slow trickle of people with the same train of thought, walking peacefully through a long hall of echoes, before we finally stumbled out in an agora of light from the labyrinth that is 'The Siq.'

  
The Siq / The Treasury at the end

The first thing that hit me (and many others for that matter) was the precise craftsmanship of 'The Treasury,' which greets you head-on, first with it's pinkish hue peeking from beyond the escarpments of 'The Siq,' and then as you get closer, with it's unimaginably crisp lines of the intricately topped pillars and rooftops. It's as if it was done with a laser from 2012, not with chisels of craftsmen from 2100 years ago. I still can't believe the superb condition in which it finds itself - the jewel of Petra.

The Treasury

As you begin to enter the many other tombs of countless Nabataean rulers speckled across the landscape, you find yourself surrounded by frozen rivers of red, orange, pink, black and grey. These sandpaper murals hug the angles of the carved inner walls and leak out the gigantic doorways that contain them. I've never seen such colors stained in the Earth.

For us, Petra was one of those places that truly lived up to it's hype - even though "World Tourism Day" did not - (see below).

LOGISTICAL STUFF:
ONE DAY VS TWO DAYS:
Because Petra is so large, it would be physically taxing to try and do the whole thing in one day. Matt and I started at 7:30am and (taking our time) only got through 1/3 of the sites and treks by 6:00pm - 10.5 hours! We do tend to be doddlers, so that can somewhat explain away the long day, but if you have a day to spare, we would highly recommend taking it. If not for you, for your poor feet.

On the day we went, it was "World Tourism Day," where you are granted free admission into any national park within Jordan, according to VisitJordan.com. At least so we thought. Come to find out that it was only the "Jordanian" tourists that received free entry. No biggie though - a 2-day pass only costs slightly more than a 1-day pass.

GUIDE BOOKS: LONELY PLANET VS ROUGH GUIDE:
I personally feel that it's important to have some kind of guide, whether it's a book or a person, to fully enjoy this place. Both will help you map out how to make the most of your time there, and without them you'll just be looking at a lot of pretty structures without much context. Plus, you can find out unmarked trails that you normally wouldn't have known on your own. Just my two cents. 

In regards to books, I have to say, I read the sections for Petra in both the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide, and although the Lonely Planet gives you an oober cool 3D map (and I'm a huge advocate for LP), it doesn't really give you diddly on the history of Petra itself and all the sites within the park. Rough Guide did a much better job in thoroughly spelling it out.

TRANSPORT: AMMAN TO WADI MUSA:
There is a posh air-conditioned bus available around 8am from Amman to Wadi Musa (Petra), which leaves to Amman around 3 or 4pm. Also, there are several public buses (non-A/C) that will take you there throughout the day. However, you'll find that sharing a taxi with some fellow travelers will fare around the same price, be much quicker, and will drop you off at your hotel. (We took a shared taxi.)

CLICK HERE FOR MORE PICS

Roots Of Hebron

Before going to Jordan, I (Matt) had no idea where Hebron was or why it was relevant to Chris' family.  I left with the answers to both questions.   When we arrived, all we knew was that Chris' Uncle Jamal had arranged for us to meet his sister, Najah, and her family, who lives in Amman, but that was the extent of it.  We had no idea that they (through her daughter, Safa) had arranged for a private driver to take us to the Dead Sea and Baptism Site of Jesus and that after they would have us for dinner at their house.

They were beyond generous and hospitable in every way possible.  The best part though was that they made us feel at home, in a way that only family could.  We ended up going over for dinner twice and both visits were spent getting to know Chris' extended family and where they came from.  That's when I learned that Jamal wasn't from Jordan at all, but instead from a town in Palestine, called Hebron.  Unfortunately, due to the political conflicts with Israel, his family ended up fleeing Hebron (with the roots of a Hebron grape vine in tow) and taking refuge in Jordan.  There's no doubt though that Najah and her husband are passionate about where they come from.

 

 

Top Left Clockwise:
Hijazi Family, Najah's husband wearing black and white head piece (representing Palestine), Grape vines from Hebron, Najah and her family.

Independent of how much you read or watch on the news, there's nothing like visiting the Middle East region to get a real understanding of the difficulties there.  I for one never realized that so many Palestinians left to Jordan because they considered their territory occupied by Jewish settlers.  It's sad hearing stories of the conflict in the region, but we still really appreciated visiting and listening to different perspectives on both sides of the issue.  More importantly though, it was nice just getting to share stories over a home-cooked meal, baklava, and some fresh picked grapes from that very same vine they grew up with.

LOGISTICAL STUFF:
CROSSING THE BORDER FROM ISRAEL TO JORDAN:
There are three points of entry from Israel into Jordan -  Sheikh Hussein (north), King Hussein Bridge / Allenby Bridge (central) and Wadi Araba (south). The NAME border is by far the most popular as it's more of a direct line into Amman (57 km / 35.4 miles away), the capital of Jordan and great jumping off point to various sites around northern and eastern Jordan. However, you will need to visit a Jordanian embassy to obtain your VISA before crossing. We chose the Sheikh Hussein border, mainly because we're lazy and didn't want to have to obtain our visas beforehand - VISA on arrival for U.S. citizens.

SHEIKH HUSSEIN - NORTHERN BORDER CROSSING:
We took 2 buses and a taxi to get the border - Bus #1: Tel Aviv - Jerusalem (18 ILS), Bus #2 - Jerusalem to Bet She'an (42 ILS), Taxi: In Bet She'an, take an overpriced taxi (40 ILS) straight to the border - there is no local bus that we found that will take you there, after asking around for 30 minutes. Go to www.egged.co.il/eng for bus schedules - super easy website and the air conditioned buses DO run on time.

When you arrive to the border patrol office on the Israeli side, you may wonder if you're in the right place. Matt and I made up of 66% of the patrons, with the only other person of Palestinian decent, crossing for work purposes. After exiting Israel, you'll have to wait approximately 45 minutes for a bus to take you 100 yards to the Jordanian border patrol office. Leave your bags/luggage at the door when you enter.

OBTAINING A VISA ON ARRIVAL / STAMPS INSIDE YOUR PASSPORT:
It's very straightforward to obtain a visa on arrival at this border crossing. Now, stepping back when we were first entering Israel, we were very specific in requesting to have our Israel entry stamped on a separate piece of paper, i.e. not in our passport. After explaining that we were on a long trip and could potentially visit countries that will not allow us entry with the stamp, like Malaysia, Bangladesh, etc. The officer obliged  although not without a little Spanish Inquisition. 

Fast forward to the present, entering Jordan overland via Israel. The Jordanian officer asked me TWICE if I (Chris) wanted to have my visa and entry stamp included in the pages of my passport. Without thinking it through (blurred by my excitement), I replied, "Of course!" But, after the fog cleared, Matt and I quickly realized why he had asked. The officer explained that since the stamp specifically names the border we used to cross into Jordan, it was obvious that we have visited Israel, regardless of not having an Israeli stamp in our passport. In other words, all that work and worry about the Israeli stamp was moot, now that we had that particular entry stamp. 

Thankfully, it appears that border patrol officers are only looking for the Israeli stamp itself when thumbing through your passport. I only say this because we had someone specifically ask us if we've been to Israel, and we simply said, "We do not have an Israeli stamp." That seemed to suffice. (Phew!) 

CLICK HERE FOR MORE PICS

The Open Road

Chris' Dad, Ryck "Polamalu," had to head back home to return to work, but her mom, Liz, stayed for an extra week with us to see Northern Israel- Nazareth, Tiberias, Sea of Galilea, Golan Heights, Akko, Haifa & Caesarea.  After battling with public transport during Sabbath and the holiday season, we quickly decided we would do the rest of the trip with our own wheels.  The open road gave us flexibility to roam freely and even drive out to Israel's borders with Lebanon and Jordan. Super cool.

Here are some of our favorite pics from the road:

Three Amigos

'

Border of Lebanon

Now where to?

Liz, experiencing the dorm life.

No, Liz. You can't escape us.

CLICK FOR MORE PICS: Tiberias | Nazareth | Haifa | Akko | Caesarea

Have Faith And Float

Floating in the Dead Sea is an unnerving experience. You have to trust that you will in fact float. It's not easy, when every billboard is warning you of the adverse reactions that can happen if you do any one of the following: jump in head first, float on your belly, get your eyes wet, get water in your mouth, stay in the water too long, shave any part of your body, etc. etc. From what I gathered, burning doesn't even describe the sensation you'll feel if you disobey any of these rules.

(ADVISORY: Please turn up volume & push pause to wait for video to load halfway before playing.)

QUOTE OF THE DAY:
To have faith is to trust yourself to the water. When you swim, you don't grab hold of the water, because if you do you will sink and drown. Instead you relax, and float.
-Alan Watts | philosopher, writer, speaker

CLICK HERE FOR PICS