The Wheels Are Turning

(NOTE: This was written whilst we were still traveling the great continent of India back in 2013. Here were my (Christine's) thoughts then.)

India. This place makes you think, man. It's so mixed and different everywhere you go. From state to state, crossing 50km over the border, the scenery, food, dress, religion and particularly the language can change dramatically. It has been a blessing that English has been widespread through the sub-continent. Not having the language barrier has allowed us to learn more about the people living here than in any other country we've visited, especially during the long hours on the trains, buses and stops in between.

As our friend, Dustin, said (I'm paraphrasing), "India effects you, deeply." And he was right. He, of course, is not talking about the lime-colored Tea Plantations of Kerala, the glowing Golden Temple of Punjab or even the perfectly symmetrical Taj Mahal of Uttar Pradesh. It's her people that effect you - all in very different ways, positive and negative.

We have heard many travelers generalize the whole of India based on their encounters either in the North or South parts, assuming the entire nation is of the same mind and character. I believe this to be a great misunderstanding. Not just because it's simply not true (are New Yorkers the same as Texans?), but for obvious reasons. Just like in any relationship, your baggage can unfairly impress certain attributes on someone new and completely unrelated. Naturally, this mostly pertains to negative interactions, which can potentially alter or even halt your receptivity to new experiences and encounters.

We've definitely had our share of badgering and harassment from vendors, autorickshaw drivers and those asking for a spare Rupee or two - it's to be the case in tourist-soaked cities where foreigners are no longer novel but profitable, where the income of many merchants solely depends on sales to foreigners  - but good or bad, I can speak for Matt when I say, "We love India!"

We've never been to a place that has made us really think and reevaluate our own role in the World - as a person from a wealthy nation, with an income 10 fold more than most here, as someone with the freedom and opportunity to decide your own path, and lastly, as a human being in regards to morality and ethics. 

• (Now, I would just like to pause here for a moment, as I'm aware this all sounds a bit dramatic, but I've tried several times trying to come up with commentary on architecture and scenery for a post, but I'm falling short. All my most memorable moments have involved people, again good and bad (it hasn't all been peaches and cream), and through this evokes candid, raw emotion. So, that's what I'm going with.)

This country is indeed all about emotion and contradictions - I feel this out of all the stereotypes is most true about India, even more so than how "dirty" it is - after 2 months here, we still haven't seen the elusive person who decides to pop a squat, do the doo, go #2 right next to our feet. We still have one more city to visit - Varanasi - before we leave. Maybe we'll witness this phenomenon there - we know he exists, we just haven't met him yet.

Because more than anywhere else we've visited, India is a place where the journey truly is what makes it so extraordinarily unique, not the destinations. Not to say there aren't exquisite natural and man-made wonders here, but you can't simply just see her sites. You have to interact with her people.

Seas Of Green

For my big 3-0, Matt and I set off on a mission to make it from Kochi (Cochin) to Munnar, land of the tea plantations, before my birthday on December 9th. After 3 autorickshaws, 2 buses and 1 ferry, we arrived at our hotel before the clock struck midnight - MISSION: Accomplished!

In the morning, the plantations were revealed and they were indeed spectacular, with the morning fog just barely touching the tops of these perfectly manicured trees. Their leaves of bright green blanketed every open area of the countryside as far as the eye could see. No other color, but green.

Although the plantations were serene, relaxing and incredibly unique for both of us, what made my birthday so special was to have both Matt and my Mom sing me "Happy Birthday" before I made a wish and blew out the candles of my cake. No. She wasn't beamed up, Scotty. But, she did come in some form of hologram.

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The Time Has Come

After 7 months of travel, the time had finally come for us to go to INDIA. It was one of the few countries that was a must see for both of us and by far the one that held the most allure.  We met countless other travelers who had been and all described it using such vivid adjectives.  In fact, I think we had heard so much about it prior to arrival, that we didn't know what to expect other than to know it would be an experience like no other.

Etihad Airlines

 As we boarded the plane, out of SOUTH AFRICA, we tried purposefully to leave behind all those preconceived ideas, but that was nearly impossible.  We landed in Kochi (Cochin), southern India, and our first experience could have never been anticipated.  As we exited the small, quiet airport terminal in search of the local bus, we asked a few police officers for directions.  They happily walked us to the bus stop and explained that it would be there in 20 min time.  Before we could say thank you, they were offering us tea (more like tea-flavored hot milk) and asking us what country we came from.  (No, there wasn't any motive behind their hospitality.)  They were just genuinely happy to chat and share tea with us.

It was such a nice introduction into INDIA and a reminder that kindness is a universal human quality no matter where you are. We hopped on the air-conditioned bus (also unexpected) into town and those preconceived ideas already began to feel a little more distant.

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Indian Visas In South Africa

We had our fair share of questions when it came to getting our INDIAN VISAs abroad. We'd heard so many horror stories on getting denied, from hidden fees to additional paperwork, that we wanted to make absolutely sure we did everything right - we even used a highlighter on some of our documents.

To get you started on your path to enlightenment, we put together a quick write-up on what we learned in the process on how to obtain your VISA outside the United States (for U.S. Citizens), particularly SOUTH AFRICA.

JOHANNESBURG VS. CAPE TOWN CONSULATES:
When we arrived in Cape Town, we made a beeline to the Indian consulate to ask questions about the VISA application before turning it in the next day - Indian VISAs are notoriously difficult to get. You often hear of fellow travelers being denied on their first attempt - Matt's brother, Mark, was no exception.

When we showed up at the consulate, we were surprised of how quiet the office was. We just strolled right in and asked reception where the VISA department was. She looked puzzled and replied, "Sorry, we don't do VISAs here. You have to get them through our Johannesburg office." DOH! Nevertheless, the woman was very helpful and helped answer all our A.D.D. questions over the next few days, including all the fees.

After compiling our applications (see requirements below), we used a private shipping company, DHL Express, to overnight deliver our package to the Johannesburg consulate for 276 Rand (0.5 kgs) from Cape Town.

VISA processing time takes around 5 business days - we got ours in three. You can check your application status online.

JOHANNESBURG CONSULATE ADDRESS:

• Consulate General of India
• Visa Applications
• 1 Eton Road
• Parktown
• Johannesburg 2193
• South Africa

REQUIREMENTS FOR U.S. CITIZENS - PER APPLICANT:

• Submit application online and print-out
• Additional Referral Form - Fill-out and sign an additional form saying you are not a South African resident.
• Passport - 2 full pages available and at least 6 months old
• 2 Passport Photos - 2" x 2"
• Copy of South African birth certificate or ID - You obviously don't have this, so make a copy of your passport. To be 100% covered, you could ask the Cape Town police department to validate the copy. Do not make a copy of your driver's license - if the address does not match the state on your passport, you will be denied. Just ask Matt's brother, Mark.
• Receipt of Cash Deposit - If traveling with someone, you still must each have your own receipt, even if submitting your applications in the same envelope.
• Deposit directly through First National Bank. 
• On receipt it should say:
• BANK: FNB
• FOR: Consulate General of India Johannesburg
• ACCOUNT NUMBER: 50371108299
• ACCOUNT TYPE: Commercial Cheque Account
• REFERENCE: VISA (First Initial, Middle Initial, Last Initial) (Surname)
• EXAMPLE: VISA CLV VASALLO
• AMOUNT: 865 Rand (As of November 2012)
• U.S. Citizen Standard Indian Application Fee (VISA valid up to 6 months): 480 Rand
• South African Non-Resident Fee: 120 Rand
• U.S. Citizen Fee: 240 Rand
• ICWF Fee: 25 Rand
• Itinerary or Copy of Return Air Ticket - Print out the email you received from the airline with your flight and passenger information. You don't have to have proof of departure ticket.
• Confirmed Accommodation and Itinerary Details - Signed letter that says something like the below. Keep in mind, we did not have our accommodation or our exiting bus booked before applying. Nor did we have our route planned. We simply picked the most likely departure point and means of transport.
• Dear Consulate General of India,
  I, Matthew Vasallo, will be entering India at the Cochin International Airport on 07/12/2012 via Etihad Airways, Flight # EY2280 at 15:35. I will be exiting India from Gorakhpur via bus on 1/2/2012 to Kathmandu, Nepal.
  Upon arrival, I will be staying at the Vedanta Wake Up! at 1/506 River Road, Cochin, India 682001, beginning on 7/12/2012, telephone #: +914842216636. 
  I will be visiting the following places during my time in India: Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Delhi, Mumbai, Rajasthan, Utter Pradesh, Agra.
  Sincerely,
  Matt Vasallo

The Eagle Has Landed

It wasn't until the overland truck rounded the bend and the ocean breeze came rushing into the windows, that I (Matt) saw 'Table Mountain,' and knew we were close to our final destination of our 6-week organized tour - Cape Town, SOUTH AFRICA.

Table Mountain

As always,we hadn't made reservations or plans for what we would do when we actually finished our 'Acacia Africa' trip (including plane tickets out of the country), but that was okay. We were happy to take it slow and get back into the groove of planning.

SOUTH AFRICA proved to be a great place to do just that.  The entire first week was designated for resting, planning and even doing a little sightseeing around Cape Town. Afterwards, we spent the final weeks in Africa driving along the southern coast from the Cape of Good Hope to Port Elizabeth, ending up in Johannesburg to pick up our VISAs for INDIA. (Turns out the Cape Town Indian Consulate doesn't accept VISA applications - see next post on how to obtain your INDIAN VISA in SOUTH AFRICA.)

It really was the perfect transition to being back on our own. The car rental made things flexible and the coastal drive was incredibly beautiful.  There were guest houses galore, so finding somewhere to stay each night was easy and there were fun things to see along the way like penguin colonies and ostrich farms.

Here are some snapshots of the dramatic coastal scenery and the things we saw along the way:

Hout Bay

Cape Point

Southern Right Whale

Cape Agulhas - Southernmost point in Africa

LOGISTICAL STUFF:
CAPE TOWN TO PORT ELIZABETH:
Rented a car from a local dealer, 'Comet,' through our hostel, 'Ashanti Lodge.' 240 Rand / day ($27.50 USD / day) with unlimited kms / day. They will drop-off and pick-up the car at your door step. Because we weren't making a return trip to Cape Town, we paid an additional drop-off fee of 650 Rand ($74 USD) to leave the car in Port Elizabeth.

In addition, we had to fill up the gas tank before they picked it up. Keep in mind, the gas attendant may not fill your car all the way (something about a button you have to push to release trapped air from the tank), so the rental company may charge more after you've dropped it off to make up the difference in missing gas.

The best thing about using a local rental company is they have more flexibility when it comes to special requests, like extending days or upgrades. Plus, they are more eager to negotiate price.

• Comet Car Rental - Cape Town, Johannesburg, Durban, Port Elizabeth
• Cape Town Tel: 021-386-2411
• Email: info@cometcar.co.za
• www.cometcar.co.za

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One Stop Shop

Each country we visited on our overland tour had unique scenery and sights, but NAMIBIA had, by far, the most to see in terms of seeing the African animals and landscapes. I would describe it as the "one-stop-shop." Within a short drive, you can see beaches, deserts, national parks, and even massive canyons. 

Here are some pictures that we thought best capture how beautifully diverse this country is:

Grasslands of Etosha National Park

Lioness at a watering hole in Etosha National Park

Rock formations of Spitzkoppe

Stretch of desert in northwest Namibia

Beaches of the Skeleton Coast

Sunrise on top of Dune 45 in Namib-Naukluft National Park

Fish River Canyon in Richtersveld National Park

LOGISTICAL STUFF:
Out of all the countries we visited on our 6-week overland tour, NAMIBIA was one that you could easily go without a driver and rent a car instead. It had great infrastructure and we felt that it would have been seamless to travel independently in lieu of a prepaid tour. The roads were good and they connected all the major sites including Etosha National Park in the north. You could even continue your road trip into SOUTH AFRICA, since they also have great infrastructure for tourists.

CLICK FOR MORE PICS: Etosha | Swapokmund | Skeleton Coast | Dune 45 | Fish River Canyon

6 Month Mark With Cardboard And Radar Guns

Namibia has some of the highest sand dunes in the World. Thus many tourists come here to "experience" them. Thankfully, many locals have already compiled a long list of activities that you can sign up for that will curtail that experience into something spectacular, i.e. an exciting tale to tell all your family and friends about, like skydiving, quad-biking, stunt aerobatics, etc. And one of the super touristy things to do is sandboarding.

Matt and I had our doubts on how eventful this outing was actually going to be. We heard lots of stories that it's amaaaaazing, but from what I could tell it looked like it involved more hiking to the top of the sand dune, than actually riding the supposedly adrenaline-filled sled down it. Regardless, we opted to take the plunge and swiped the credit card. Cha-ching!

Much like the tourists-only experience at the "Devil's Pool" in Zambia, it wasn't until we arrived at the dunes themselves and took our first downhill slide that we realized we had made the right decision. Touristy or not, this was ridiculously fun.

Matt took the more challenging road of using a stand-up snowboard to weave his way down the dune, while I opted to ride a simple waxed cardboard sheet headfirst straight down. That rush you get makes you forget about anything aversive about the ride. In fact, your like, "Who cares if I have 3 buckets of sand in my shorts, shoes, ears, eyes and nose, and have to climb this gigantic dune carrying a kite-like apparatus in hard wind. Whatever, dude. I want to do that again!"

It instantly became addictive, and the moment they pulled out the radar gun (now we're talkin'), our competitiveness jumped in on the action. Game on Vasallo!

75 kph / 47 mph on a sandboard.
(ADVISORY: Please turn up volume & push pause to wait for video to load halfway before playing.)

P.S.

We also had our 6 month mark on the road that day - great way to celebrate our anniversary. :)

Happy Anniversary!
(ADVISORY: Please turn up volume & push pause to wait for video to load halfway before playing.)

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Polin' Ain't Easy

Floating through the tranquil waters of the Okavango Delta, in Botswana, was one of my (Matt) favorite parts of our overland tour.  It was the perfect remedy to the long hours riding around on the truck, and the weather couldn't have been better.  The blue skies, occasional cloud and slow breeze reminded me why I love being out on the water so much.  This was different though, we were in a giant sea of grass filled with never-ending canals which snaked this way and that.

I wasn't sure how the polers knew their way around, but after a 2 hour trip we had arrived at our campsite.  It was basic, with no power, water, or toilets, but this was what I had been waiting for, real camping! The polers stayed with us that night and acted as our security and guides the following day.  We went on two walks on a nearby grassy island, where we saw elephants (at a distance), heard hippos and saw tracks of almost every animal.

Our guide spotted the tracks almost immediately and explained what animal had left it. The only downer was leaving after one night.  It was still amazing though and in my opinion, a “must see” for anyone who visits Botswana.

Hippo Prints

Oh, and by the way moving a boat with a pole is more difficult than it looks.  I was eager to get a friendly canoe race going, until I actually tried navigating the canoe on a straight path using the pole.

The polers made it look easy, like really easy, but I quickly came to realize that they were indeed masters of their craft, pun intended.

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Rafting 101

White water rafting down the Zambezi River in Zambia was one of the main things we wanted to do on our overland tour through Africa. During our introductory meeting, we were told the rapids would be rated 4s and 5s, due to the low water levels (i.e. the rapids are much quicker this time of year), but to be completely honest, they felt more like 7s and 8s. To better prepare you for your next white water rafting experience, here are a few tips we've compiled with help from our rafting guide, Tembo.

1) Always continue paddling through the rapid, unless told to stop by your guide.

DO

DON'T

2) Don't grab on to people if you think you're going to fall out. Do grab the raft.

DO

DON'T

3) Don't let go of the rafting ropes while you are riding out the rapid. Do stay in a squatted position.

DO

DON'T

 4) In the off chance that you do fall out, don't panic. Hold on to the raft to keep your head out of the water throughout the duration of the rapid.

DO 

DON'T

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Living On The Edge

I have to admit we were a little sad when we arrived at one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world and realized it was at its weakest flow of the year.  Don't get me wrong, it was incredible and there was still a large amount of water falling into the Zambezi River, but it wasn't what is seen in the rainy season, or in those picturesque postcards.  Chris took some shots of the gorge and we thought, "Wow, this must be a site to see in rainy season."

Victoria Falls (Looking at Zambia side)

Zimbabwe on the left / Zambia on the right

However, two days later, our opinion on low season did a 180.  It was right after we went out to see the "Devil's Pool."

Brave guides take tons of tourists, like ourselves, in low season out to the pool which sits at the very edge of the falls. You have to cross the river to get to it. I remember swimming through, after our guide, and feeling the current pull my body ever so slightly downstream toward the drop zone.  I kept thinking about the force of the river at it's max. We swam over to the pool's edge to have a look at the drop off.  I watched the falling waters, just a few feet away, as it rolled off the edge and plummeted down into the massive gorge.

Devil's Pool

It wasn't as scary so much as it was impressive. I left feeling humbled and appreciative of the natural wonder that is Victoria Falls.

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